Babylon, or ‘Babel’ as it’s known locally, is Iraq’s most recently-listed UNESCO World Heritage Site, inscribed in 2019.

This fascinating site comprises the ancient site of Babylon (partially reconstructed), the Lion of Babylon statue and Saddam Hussein’s summer palace. There is also a replica of the famous blue Ishtar gate (much of the original is in a Berlin museum and the rest shared out around other European museums), constructed under Saddam and intended to be the site’s entrance.

Although the reconstruction of parts of ancient Babylon under Saddam remains controversial to historians and archaeologists, we actually really like it, as it gives a sense of how the site might have looked. And there remain expansive ruins which haven’t been built upon, for purists and archaeologists.

The site guard gave us a little tour and told us the outer maze-like structure was designed to confound any intruders who, trying to enter the complex, would have to traverse the corridors, many of which lead to dead ends. Meanwhile, military archers could run along the tops of the walls, picking off confused enemies with arrows. We didn’t have a translator that day so our understanding of this might be a little inaccurate.

Highlights of the site include spotting the mystical beasts carved in relief and looking for ancient bricks embedded in the walls inscribed with cuneiform writing - the world’s first.

In a clearing beyond the ruins stands the Lion of Babylon. This imposing modernist-looking sculpture is over 2,600 years old. Beneath it lies a prone figure which the guard said represented “the weak”.

Above the ancient site stands Saddam’s former summer palace, which visitors can wander freely around. Look out for an image of Saddam carved in relief and, in the main foyer, look up to see colourful ceiling paintings depicting some of the country’s ancient treasures. The palace affords stunning views across date palm groves and the Euphrates River, where water buffalo can often be seen cooling off in its waters.

Boats offer short river trips, often with accompanying pumping music, and we recommend taking one, both for the pleasure and also to support the local economy. On a larger boat, you will probably be with others.

The site can be quite busy, as buses full of university students often come for day-trips from Baghdad.

After Babylon was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, there were plans to develop the site but, as we were last there a few years back, we don’t know how any such plans are working out on the ground.

Entry costs IQD25,000 for foreigners and technically IQD3,000 dinars for Iraqis, if charged.

Getting there: we took a minibus from Baghdad to Hillah and then a local taxi to Babylon.

Getting out of there: We came a bit unstuck when we eventually left as it was quite late, the site was deserted and there were no taxis to be found as the site is quite remote. We actually got a lift from a kind Iraqi stranger (this is not really recommended, from a security perspective) to a busier road and then a taxi to Babel, where we were staying.

Update 2024: Since the site has now become much more popular, there are sometimes taxis to be found outside now, especially on weekends, but these may charge more than average.