Leaving Iraq, via Baghdad Airport - 2024 updates

Why do we love departing from Baghdad International Airport? Because processes are so much faster, smoother and more pleasant than they used to be!

At time of writing, civilian cars can finally now drive directly to the airport terminal and, for those of us who spent years negotiating the additional trials of only being able to reach the Abbas Ibn Firnas bus and taxi terminal in a civilian vehicle, and then relying on official airport vehicles to transfer us to the terminal, this really makes a big difference to speed and ease.

Initial security checks: Once your vehicle reaches the outer precinct of the airpot, there are one or two basic checkpoints where you’ll be asked who is travelling, and then one where the vehicle (doors open with passengers and bags all remaining inside) undergoes a sniffer dog inspection.

First main security check: Next up, all travellers (but not drivers) get out of their cars to go through a security check and luggage scan in a side building, a process which is swifter than it used to be.

Second security check: It’s quite a drive from there to the airport. Once there, you’ll get dropped at one of the two adjacent departure terminals (it’s not far to walk between the two if you get it wrong). Outside the terminal, passengers must deposit all bags in an orderly row, and men walk straight ahead, ascend a metal step for a public pat-down, while women step to the right into a curtained-off booth for a private pat-down by a female security guard. Then everyone waits in a designated area, while the bags are subjected to the nasal scrutiny of a lovely hound.

While recently placing our bags there, we were offered access to a VIP lounge by a smartly-dressed chap, for what sounded like a surprisingly modest amount of dollars but we declined. One day we’ll try it out for you.

Third security check: Once the sniffer dog has completed its task, you grab your bags and head into the departure terminal (it may be behind you, so follow everyone else), putting all your bags through a security scanner on the way in. This is where airport security staff used to commandeer all portable power banks but thankfully this bizarre regulation seems to have finally ceased. You may be called aside here for a pat-down (women in a curtained off area).

Once inside the airport, check the departures board to make sure you’re at the right terminal. You probably are but, if not, the pair of airport officials who check - sometimes only verbally - which flight you’re taking, will direct you to walk to the other terminal.

Fourth security check: Directly after this (sometimes only verbal) ticket check, there’s another bag scanner (with pat-down option) before you check in.

Passport control: Once you’re checked in, head straight over to passport control, smile at the camera and get stamped out, and then you’re free to explore the departure terminal, which is much-improved.

There is new comfy sofa-style seating, fanning out around a central circular raised plinth with a kind of ‘little free library’ concept with low bookshelves. It was a little thin on the ground with books and all were in Arabic but it’s a nice idea and lovely development.

There are two cafes but we always opt for the one which features several wood-panelled booths and also has a little free library concept. If you went anywhere near Mutanabbi Street on your trip, you’ll already know that Iraqis love books, so it seems fitting. The cafe is not particularly well-stocked food-wise but has the basics and does good strong Iraqi tea for IQD2,000 which helps see you through those 4am flights.

The free airport wifi service continues to improve and is increasingly reliable and also pretty fast.

Duty Free also continues to develop but, alas, this is reflected in rising prices. Overpriced western goods are also creeping in, making it far less original than it once was - the hidden costs of “development”. There used to be some handmade local Iraqi items sold in the duty free shop but these seem to have vanished, which is a shame. However, there’s still a good selection of locally made Abu Afif baclava and biscuits in attractive tins (quite pricey but reliably delicious), which can be a nice way to get shot of any unspent dinars. One of these tins makes a very decent present to take home for your loved ones or yourself.

Final security checks: Flight announcements (in English and Arabic) are still somewhat inaudible and the departures board rather alarming declares “boarded” instead of boarding. Make sure you get to your gate in good time, as there’s usually another bag scan (and pat-down option) before you enter a final waiting area. Between that waiting area and your actual plane, there is usually one additional visual check of your passport and visa.

Note: Iraq tends to lack consistency, and no two experiences at this airport have ever been identical. Airport procedures used to be significantly more complex so may not be exactly as depicted here, especially if there have been any recent security issues in Baghdad, which may mean that processes are more complex.

Getting to Baghdad Airport

If you’re departing in the early hours of the morning (a time many international flights leave), there should be little traffic on the roads but, if you have a daytime departure, Baghdad’s infamous traffic could delay you considerably. Therefore, we recommend ensuring you leave adequate time to reach the airport a good three hours before your flight’s scheduled departure time because there are still quite a few security procedures to get through.

A taxi from the street to the airport typically costs around IQD10,000-15,000 but, especially if you’re western, you can expect to pay closer to the IQD15,000. You should agree the fare before getting into the taxi and a friendly haggle, with smiles, should help get the initial fare down a bit. If you’re not happy with the proposed fare, we suggest trying another taxi.

Sometimes we arrange for a friend (and part-time taxi driver) to collect us and, for flights that require a miserable 4am pick up, we would usually pay them around IQD20,000-25,000.